Itinerary
Day 1
We meet for dinner in Bucerías, a small beach town just to the north of the Puerto Vallarta airport. Lodging in Bucerías.
Day 2
In the morning we travel by van through the lush tropical landscape along the coast, then up to the altiplano, a region of volcanoes, pine forests, and rich agricultural valleys. In Compostela we visit the local museum and church for an overview of the four thousand year history of Western Mexico. We then travel to Santa María del Oro, a scenic lake set in a deep volcanic crater. The swimming is excellent in the crystal clear, jade-green water, and there are also kayaks, mountain bikes, and horses available to tour the area. Lodging at the Koala Bungalos beside the lake.
Day 3
We get up early and drive to the Tepic airport, where our Cessna bush planes await us. The flight to the Sierra is quite a journey in itself, giving you a panorama of the rugged Sierra Madre Occidental. We land in Kuaymarutzi, a small Cora village and ceremonial center located at 2100 meters altitude. After getting settled at the ranch of the Alvarez family, we have the rest of the day to explore the area. Local points of interest include the ruins of the original church, the "new" church with its strong Indian flavor, and the Cora governors' meeting house. In the afternnon we'll take a horseback ride to visit the sacred lake of Turahmua, some lovely waterfalls, and breath-taking canyon views of the Arroyo Santiago.
Day 4
Today we saddle up the horses and burros and begin our trek across the pretty, rolling countryside that surrounds Kuaymarutzi. This area is ideal for walking or horseback riding, with mixed prairies and pine woodlands dotted with Cora ranchos. Our destination is the Carrillo rancho, near the canyon rim. In the afternoon you can learn to make tortillas, help herd sheep, or check out the nearby canyons. Sunsets here are fabulous, as are the starry nights.
Day 5
We spend most of this day walking along the rim of the San Pedro River canyon, a 7000 foot-deep barranca whose bottom is out of sight below. On clear days the Pacific Ocean is visible in the distance. Moist air from the ocean rises abruptly and condenses here, frequently bathing the canyon rim in mist and creating a fascinating micro-environment. The encino trees along the rim are veritable botanical gradens, covered with dozens of species of bromeliads, orchids, moss, ferns, lichens, and fungii. We also pass several sacred sites along the rim. We’ll stay at a rancho along the Arroyo Santa Gertrudis, with waterfalls on one side and awesome canyon views on the other.
Day 6
This morning we travel by pick-up truck through the forest and across the cordillera of the Sierra del Nayar, with many splendid views of the mountains to the east. We arrive in the town of Yauhke, an important ceremonial center and the final bastion of Cora resistance to the Spanish. We will stay in the Franciscan mission, founded in 1722 after the conquest and still functioning as a school and self-sufficient hostel for Cora children. There are many fine walks aong the canyons around town, and in the church is the skull of the Tayau Nayeri—the ancient leader who is still worshipped as the embodiment of all Cora ancestors.
Days 7 & 8
A winding cliffside drive takes us down to Chuisete, a town of adobe houses and cobblestone streets on the canyon floor. We are now in a warm climate, along a river with many fine swimming holes, petroglyphs, and rock paintings. Accommodations are at doña Roberta’s inn. Activities here include a visit to a shaman, who will demonstrate traditional curing techniques, as well as to local artisans who make woven bags and huarache sandals. Our arrival is timed for a community festival, so our main activity will be observing religious rituals. These take place in the church, the main plazas, and in streets and houses all over town.
Day 9
We bid farewell to the Cora and take our flight back to Tepic. The perfect ending to a Sierra adventure is a stay on the beach, so we’ll make the short drive through forests, coffee plantations, and mango groves to Santa Cruz. This small fishing village, surrounded by jungle-clad mountains, is a great place to feast on tropical fruit and fresh seafood, or put in some quality time in a hammock under a thatch-roof palapa. For those in a more adventurous mood we’ll travel by panga boat along seaside cliffs to a deserted beach for some swimming, walking, and fishing. Lodging at the Hotel Paraiso Miramar.
Day 10
An early morning walk through jungle is perfect for observing the many species of tropical songbirds which live in the area. Then we travel by boat through a maze of mangrove channels where visitors may spot migratory waterfowl, turtles, and crocodiles. We then explore a prehispanic pyramid and cemetery, and check out the old Spanish fortress of La Contaduría, before heading to the beach for a delicious seafood lunch and a relaxing afternoon.
Day 11
In the morning we visit a coffee finca in the mountains, and ancient rock engravings along a jungle stream. After lunch on the beach we travel by panga boat to a remote beach for snorkelling and whale-watching. In the afternoon we head back south toward Puerto Vallarta.
Day 12
Departure from Puerto Vallarta.
